While Tokyo often evokes images of urban skylines, Tokyo Metropolis spans an impressive range of nearly 1,000 kilometers, from the verdant forests of Okutama to the remote Ogasawara Islands in the North Pacific.

In this vast territory, Chef Naoki Matsuo of L’ARBRE, which opened its doors in Akiruno City in October 2023, is showcasing the hidden treasures of Tokyo-sourced ingredients. Through his concept of “Tokyo Local Gastronomy,” he brings these regional delicacies to both domestic and international audiences.

Born in Nishi Tama District, Chef Matsuo spent 21 years at the Imperial Hotel, including four years as sous chef to renowned Chef Thierry Voisin at Les Saisons. While still working at the hotel, he began cultivating vegetables on rented land in Okutama. Through his farming mentor, he discovered the Kozukue residence, built around 1875 and now designated as a Tokyo Metropolitan Tangible Cultural Property.

Instantly captivated by the property, Matsuo approached Atsushi Kozukue, the 11th generation owner, about converting it into a restaurant and received enthusiastic approval. Mr. Kozukue is an active lumberjack who, while devoted to forestry, travels throughout Japan pursuing his love of angling. During the Meiji era, Itsukaichi flourished as a lumber town, with its name derived from the timber market held on the 5th of each month. Local residents proudly say, “When Shibuya was still a village, Itsukaichi was already a town.”

Having prospered in the banking business, the Kozukue family constructed a distinctive architectural gem in Okutama—a quasi-Western style building that mirrors a trend then fashionable in urban areas like Ginza, featuring a Western exterior paired with a modern Japanese interior.

The mansion’s substantial wooden beams, elegant staircases, and traditional fusuma sliding doors eloquently speak of the Meiji era’s refinement. Guests dine in private rooms perfect for groups, and later, while savoring desserts, can immerse themselves in the nostalgic atmosphere of this bygone era.

The restaurant features a new counter in what was formerly the kitchen area (not part of the cultural property designation) and includes a wood-burning hearth.

Chef Matsuo visits the Ogasawara Islands in search of seafood to complement the mountain ingredients nurtured by Okutama’s natural environment.

Let us introduce the producers and ingredients that support the restaurant. First is “Clos de L’ARBRE,” where the chef himself grows vegetables on land borrowed from Takayuki Shimizu of Shimizu Farm, harvesting daily produce. The restaurant’s organic waste is composted and used as fertilizer.

From Itaru Hori of Yozawa Goat Farm, they receive chèvre cheese (goat cheese), whey, goat meat, and compost.

Yukio Konagai of Suisaitei cultivates yamame trout (Oncorhynchus masou) in pristine mountain streams.

During a stroll, I met Yoshinori Nakamura walking his dog – a master angler of ayu (sweetfish) whose catch graces L’ARBRE’s plates in season.

Megumi Yamashita of Trizo Farm and her husband Ryuta raise silkie fowl. As Chef Matsuo’s farming mentor, she provides compost while using the restaurant’s fish and chicken bones as feed for her birds.

The couple Motoki and Kana Ito of “Compain” create delicious brioche, campagne, and pain aux raisins. They were enjoying their day off when visited.

Tamiko Nakano, executive managing director of Vineyard Tama. This winery, established by a practicing dentist for social contribution, produces wine on-site primarily using grapes from Akiruno City.

While there are many more suppliers, this glimpse reveals how numerous Okutama producers earnestly pursue coexistence with nature and contribute to a Sound Material-Cycle sustainable society.

In this land blessed with nature and people, Chef Matsuo embraces all elements in his cuisine. Using bold fire and smoke techniques difficult to employ in central Tokyo, he creates extraordinarily delicious dishes.

Getting there: About 12 minutes from Akiruno IC on Ken-O Expressway
Address: L’ARBRE, 490 Minnei, Akiruno City, Tokyo
Website: https://www.larbretokyo.com

Text: Shunji Miyagawa
Photographer: Masashi Okutani​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​