“Let’s embark on a journey across Japan!”
As part of the TREASURES OF JAPAN series, we host the “Tabi Salon” (Travel Salon).
This time, we were honored to welcome Mayor Keisuke Saito of Yoichi Town, Hokkaido, who is spreading the story of “Yoichi, the Town of Wine” to the world.

Born in 1981 in Monbetsu City, Hokkaido, Mr. Saito graduated from Waseda University and joined the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. He served as a diplomat at the Embassy of Japan in Russia, followed by postings in Uzbekistan and Vladivostok. After returning to the ministry in Tokyo, he applied for the Cabinet Office’s Regional Revitalization Personnel Support Program and was assigned as Deputy Mayor of Teshio Town in Hokkaido. In 2018, he ran for Mayor of Yoichi Town, won the election, and is now serving his second term.

This particular Tabi Salon brought together experts and enthusiasts from the wine and tourism industries. From the outset, they were deeply impressed by Mayor Saito’s profound knowledge of wine, his clear and well-defined strategy, the strength and conviction with which he expressed it, and his remarkable ability to put those plans into action.

Yoichi Town, a nature-rich community with a population of approximately 17,000, is located about an hour from Sapporo by both train and car. It is famously known as the birthplace of Nikka Whisky, as well as for its abundant fruit and seafood production. However, like many rural areas, the town has been experiencing a significant decline in population, creating an urgent need for a new catalyst to revitalize the region.
It was in this context that Mayor Saito turned his attention to wine.
In Yoichi, Takahiko Soga, who came from a prestigious winery in Obuse Town, Nagano Prefecture, had established the region’s second winery, Domaine Takahiko, which was already highly acclaimed.
Mayor Saito began encouraging the cultivation of high-value, globally respected grape varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Mr. Soga also welcomed many apprentices, and gradually, young winemakers from around Japan began moving to Yoichi. What was once a town with just two wineries is now home to nearly twenty—and the outflow of residents has begun to slow.

One of the most interesting points from Mayor Saito’s talk was the importance of alliances.
Domaine Takahiko’s wines have been adopted by “noma,” the Swedish restaurant repeatedly named the best in the world. This success came from the mayor himself casually pitching the wines to noma’s head sommelier. Behind this was a meticulous strategy: analyzing which global cuisines pair best with Yoichi’s wines, targeting the world’s top Nordic restaurant, and showcasing Yoichi on the ultimate stage where gourmets from around the world gather.
In 2022, Yoichi signed a comprehensive partnership agreement with glassmaker Riedel Japan. Then, in February 2025, it formed a partnership with the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy, France. How did this world-renowned Burgundy terroir, considered a treasure of the region, connect with Yoichi Town, which remains largely unknown internationally? This, too, was advanced by Mayor Saito through his encounters with the heads of prestigious domaines.
Additionally, on May 30, it was announced that YOSHIKI from “X JAPAN” will begin winemaking in Yoichi, promising further expansion to a wider audience.

Collaborating with the very best across a range of fields is not only about accessing top-tier expertise—it’s also a way to elevate one’s own perspective through shared knowledge and mutual growth.
What’s particularly remarkable is that Mr. Saito personally led these negotiations, without relying on consultants or external advisors.
Why?
Because he believes: “You can’t achieve true regional revitalization by outsourcing everything to experts.”
In recent years, Yoichi Town has witnessed remarkable growth through Japan’s furusato nozei program—a unique system that allows taxpayers to redirect a portion of their taxes to rural communities they wish to support. Back in 2017, Yoichi received around 60 million yen in donations. By 2024, that number had soared to over 1.5 billion yen, fueling initiatives that directly enrich the lives of local residents.
Convincing the local community and town council to place their hopes in wine was no easy task. Why wine? And how could it truly lead to regional revitalization? These questions were met with careful thought—and bold resolve. By committing to a single, clear vision, Mr. Saito has opened up entirely new horizons for the town.
So come along—let’s head to Yoichi, Hokkaido’s proud Town of Wine, where every bottle tells a story of renewal!

Text / Shunji Miyagawa
Photography / Masashi Okutani
Translation/ Yumiko Sushitani