Surrounded by steep mountains with the Katsuura-gawa (Katsuura River) flowing through its center, Kamikatsu-chō (Kamikatsu Town) has a population of only 1,300, making it the least populated town in Shikoku. Yet this town, where forests cover 88.3% of its area, harbors remarkable “treasures” born from its rich natural environment.

The nationally acclaimed “Leaf Business” has become the town’s key industry. These leaves, essential as tsumamono (garnishes) in Japanese cuisine, are gathered by elderly residents and women who skillfully use ICT (Information and Communication Technology), heading into the mountains with tablets in hand. Their vibrant lifestyle has captured nationwide attention. Today, Irodori Co., Ltd. continues to cultivate, harvest, and develop products, supporting the aesthetic beauty of Japanese cuisine. On this day, they were out collecting early autumn leaves to fulfill an order.

Another nationally recognized initiative is the “Zero Waste Declaration.” Kamikatsu’s residents have achieved a recycling rate of over 80% through their waste reduction efforts. The “Zero Waste Center,” renovated in 2020, appears as a question mark from above, posing a “WHY” to environmental degradation. The facility includes accommodation for experiential stays.

Deep in the mountains, Kamikatsu reveals different faces through the seasons: starlit skies, summer fireflies dancing over streams, autumn’s artistic harvest scenes, and though Shikoku (one of Japan’s four main islands) is known for its mild climate, winter still brings snow to these mountain valleys.

Drawn by the natural beauty of Kamikatsu, Chef Taira Omotehara had already established his Italian restaurant “Pertornare” after relocating from Tokushima City. Wanting guests to fully savor the passage of time in this special place, he renovated a traditional house, transforming it into “Locanda Pertornare,” a comfortable lodging facility marking a new chapter in his journey.

In Italy, a “locanda” refers to a place where travelers can find respite through dining and lodging, soothing their travel fatigue.

The wooden mountain house makes some visitors feel as if they’ve returned to their childhood home.

Chef Omotehara began his career in French cuisine before joining “Al-Ché-cciano” under Chef Masayuki Okuda, known for promoting local Italian cuisine. There he learned both culinary techniques and the spirit of regional revitalization through food. For Omotehara, who wanted to express the local terroir through his cuisine, Kamikatsu proved to be the perfect location.

His dynamic cooking style incorporates wood fire, as seen in the preparation of locally caught eel from the Katsuura-gawa and its estuary. The smoke and aroma stimulate the appetite.

While vegetables and fruits are sourced locally, he also grows produce in front of the locanda. From garden to counter—this freshness cannot be replicated in urban restaurants.

At the locanda, staff member Sonoko Tanaka and the chef’s mother, Akiko Omotehara, welcome guests with warm smiles. Come experience the healing atmosphere of this locanda for yourself.

Getting there: 1 hour 15 minutes by car from Tokushima Airport 1 hour by car from JR Tokushima Station
Address: 71 Furukawa, Fukuhara, Kamikatsu-cho, Katsuura-gun, Tokushima Prefecture 771-4505
Website: https://pertornare.jp

Text: Shunji Miyagawa
Photography: NOBUAKI YAMAZAKI