“Can a single fish merchant really transform a region’s food culture?”
This was the governor’s response when hearing about Shizuoka’s rapid culinary evolution.

The catalyst for this transformation is Naoki Maeda (b. 1974), the fifth-generation owner of Sasue Maeda Fish Shop in Yaizu City. Maeda wears three distinct hats: first, as a local fishmonger supporting the community’s dining tables; second, as a specialist supplier to Michelin three-star restaurants across Japan and Asia; and third, as the leader of “Team Maeda,” collaborating with Shizuoka’s chefs to explore ways of maximizing fish’s potential.

On this day, the market was bustling with practicing chefs, drawn by an exceptional catch of plump horse mackerel and mackerel. Among them were Masaki Fujioka of “Nihon Ryori FUJI,” Kenichi Nishi of “Chiso Nishi Kenichi,” Tomonori Nakamura of “Nakamura,” Daigo Sugiyama of “Onjaku,” Takeo Shimura of “Naruse,” and Yasuhiko Inoue of “Simples” – the elite chefs elevating Shizuoka’s cuisine.

Then comes the ‘hiyashi’ (cooling) process. “When enzymes activate within cells, cell membranes break down, releasing umami components along with moisture as drip,” Maeda explains. “So we cool the fish to prevent this drip. Furthermore, by placing them in boxes with temperature differentials, we alter osmotic pressure rates, creating custom-prepared fish for each restaurant.” Through these methods, fish rich in flavor and moisture are delivered to each chef.

Let’s see how these carefully prepared fish are transformed by Yaizu’s newly famous “Three Masters.”

At “Onjaku”, known for its tea ceremony cuisine, Chef Sugiyama prepares Suruga Bay’s prized kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) using the ‘uroko-yaki’ scale-grilling technique. His delicate fire control slowly draws out the umami, finishing with high heat to define the fish’s character. The crispy skin and the umami locked within the unparalleled fresh flesh quality. The succulent deliciousness that explodes in your mouth is impossible to compare to anything else.

Tempura restaurant “Nakamura,” opened near Yaizu Station in May 2023, is run by Chef Nakamura, who trained under Shimura at “Naruse” for about eight years. “While Edo-style tempura draws out moisture and fries beyond that point, I focus on preserving the fish’s natural moisture, creating a tender, floating sensation that expresses both texture and umami,” he explains. Here lies the essence of tempura—a culinary art built upon the exquisite balance between moisture drawn out and moisture preserved through the batter, revealing the very soul of this delicate preparation.