Perched on a small hill just a 10-minute drive from JR Iwaki Station lies a restaurant that has become a destination for food connoisseurs throughout Japan. This is “HAGI” – an establishment that draws gastronomes from across the country specifically to visit Iwaki City.
Chef Harutomo Hagi, born in Iwaki City in 1976, graduated from the Tsuji Culinary Institute’s French school before perfecting his skills in France. In 2000, he returned to his hometown to open a restaurant serving orthodox French cuisine distinguished by its flavorful sauces and sophisticated spices.

The 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake would become a pivotal moment that transformed both Chef Hagi’s philosophy and culinary approach.
With customers no longer visiting the restaurant, he scaled back to serving just one reservation per day. This period of reflection led to a profound discovery – the exceptional quality of Iwaki’s local ingredients that had always been there, waiting to be fully appreciated.
He began visiting local producers, engaging in meaningful conversations with like-minded individuals who shared his vision. This journey led to his current style, centered around wood-fire cooking that draws out the fullest potential of fresh Joban ingredients, guided by his philosophy that “freshness and life cannot be rewound.” The restaurant was reborn as “HAGI,” taking the chef’s own surname as its identity.

“Fifteen minutes to the fishing port, ten minutes to the fields” – this geographical advantage forms the foundation of Chef Hagi’s creative partnership with Nagatoshi Shiraishi of “Farm Shiraishi.” Chef Hagi repeatedly visited the fields, and together they overcame the post-disaster hardships.
On his two-hectare (approximately 5-acre) plot, Mr. Shiraishi carefully cultivates not trendy produce but everyday treasures of Japanese agriculture – broccoli, carrots, daikon, Chinese cabbage, leeks, taro, and eggplant – using natural farming methods without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, prioritizing patience and respect for the land.
When these pristine ingredients meet Chef Hagi’s masterful wood-fire techniques, signature dishes of remarkable depth and simplicity emerge.
His renowned “wood-fire roasted carrots” rest above the hearth for two days to develop their natural sweetness. Mr. Shiraishi’s carrots, which resist burning remarkably well, concentrate their umami essence through this process, leaving diners amazed by their profound flavor.

Supporting Chef Hagi’s celebrated fish dishes – which guests describe as “something you can only eat here” – is Shoichi Umeda of “Umeda Suisan.”
The key to understanding their approach lies in what locals call “zako” (small fish or minnows that are often overlooked). While Mr. Umeda handles luxury fish like fugu, his true artistry shines in his preparation of mehikari (greeneye) and other underutilized small fish. While Mr. Umeda handles luxury fish like fugu, his true artistry shines in his preparation of mehikari (greeneye) and other underutilized small fish. Chef Hagi learned from Mr. Umeda that these fresh “zako” which rarely appear in urban markets, possess extraordinary flavors.
“I trust Mr. Umeda’s discerning eye completely,” shares Chef Hagi. “He taught me how the same fish transforms with the seasons, and his knife skills can only be described as ‘divine.’ Each day, I look forward to visiting the fishing port to see what the day’s catch has brought.”

The dining experience at HAGI extends beyond the plate through thoughtful wine pairings from the local Iwaki Winery, creating a perfect marriage of flavors between the food and wine. Current owner Asami Shike continues the noble work her father began when he founded the winery to create employment opportunities for people with disabilities.
The winery produces exclusive bottles for HAGI, inspiring many guests to visit after their meal to purchase these exceptional wines. Soil analysis revealed the terroir’s particular suitability for Merlot, though their portfolio of single-varietal wines – including outstanding Muscat, Chardonnay, and indigenous Koshu – has earned significant recognition. Crafted with patience and care, these wines offer a delicate complexity that perfectly complements Chef Hagi’s vibrant cuisine.

Chef Hagi’s decision to embrace local ingredients rather than imported French products after the earthquake has not only expanded his culinary repertoire but transformed Joban-Iwaki into a revered destination for those who appreciate gastronomic tourism.

The historic JR Joban Line, which once supported the region’s coal industry and local livelihoods, now carries a different kind of passenger. If you notice unfamiliar faces or international visitors on the train, they might well be fellow food enthusiasts making the journey to experience the exceptional flavors of HAGI.

“HAGI”
Getting there: 5 minutes from Iwaki-Chuo IC on the Joban Expressway
Address: 171-10 Onigoe, Midai-sakai-machi, Uchigo, Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture
Phone: 0246-26-5174

Text ＆ photography/ Masashi Okutani
Translation: Yumiko Sushitani