Mount Chokai, spanning Akita and Yamagata Prefectures, is an active volcano standing 2,236 meters (7,336 feet) tall. It boasts a rare geographical feature where the sea is just 16 kilometers (approximately 10 miles) from its peak. Situated at the mountain’s base, Nikaho City, with a population of around 21,000, is a treasure trove of ingredients blessed by Mount Chokai’s natural abundance.
From this town, Chef Kenichi Watanabe and sommelier Kiyoka Murakami are broadcasting “Akita’s Cuisine” to the world. Chef Watanabe, originally from Akita Prefecture, honed his skills under the tutelage of master French chef Tateru Yoshino, gaining valuable experience in the kitchens of Ginza and Paris. Meanwhile, Mr. Murakami is a true professional who has experienced front-of-house service at Joel Robuchon-affiliated restaurants in Tokyo.

The pair were presented with an extraordinary opportunity – to breathe new life into what was once a corporate guest house. This magnificent 1970s Japanese structure reveals itself as you approach: a harmonious blend of traditional architecture and modern sensibility, with its single-timber pillars and beams drawing the eye upward, all surrounded by an expansive garden that seems to embrace the building itself
Captivated by the property’s tranquil elegance at first sight, Watanabe and Murakami inaugurated “Remède nikaho” in April 2018. Their vision was clear: to create not just a restaurant, but a sanctuary where guests could find restoration for both body and spirit through exceptional cuisine and thoughtfully curated wine pairings. The name “Remède,” with its French roots, perfectly captures their philosophy – healing through the power of nature.
Their guiding principle, elegantly expressed as “Chisan Chisho” (celebrating and elevating local terroir), reflects a profound commitment. Chef Watanabe articulates it beautifully: “While honoring the gifts of this land, we aspire to be a presence that creates pathways to happiness—not only for our guests but also for our producers and the surrounding community.”

Let’s glimpse one of Chef Watanabe’s course meals, where classic French techniques meet modern interpretation, all through the lens of Nikaho’s distinctive terroir. Each dish tells a story of place and tradition, reimagined through meticulous technique.

The culinary journey at Remède nikaho began with a formidable challenge: sourcing the finest ingredients. Despite the region’s natural abundance, the absence of a centralized market meant creating direct relationships with local producers. Undeterred, Chef Watanabe embarked on a personal odyssey across Akita Prefecture, an expedition that evolved into something far more meaningful than procurement—it became the foundation of a culinary community united by a singular passion: to showcase the extraordinary flavors of Akita to the world.
These relationships are nurtured through frequent visits, where Chef Watanabe immerses himself in the world of his passionate producers.

Among these dedicated artisans is Kazunari Sasaki, a fisherman born in 1989 whose roots in Nikaho run deep through his father, also a local fisherman. He works on a fixed net fishing boat, continuing the traditional fishing methods that have sustained coastal communities for generations.
After pursuing education at a specialized fisheries university in Kanagawa Prefecture and gaining invaluable experience in metropolitan fish markets, Sasaki returned with a revelation—Akita’s magnificent seafood remained virtually unknown in Japan’s urban centers. Today, his operation extends beyond fishing to include a processing facility, allowing him to deliver his catch directly to appreciative customers.

The secret to the region’s extraordinary seafood lies beneath the waves. Water that filters through Mount Chokai and its foothills emerges as mineral-rich springs on the offshore seabed, creating an underwater paradise where plankton flourish. This natural phenomenon attracts smaller fish, which in turn draw seasonal treasures like salmon and cod, creating one of Japan’s most remarkable fishing grounds. Sasaki’s commitment to quality is evident in his meticulous process—each fish is bled immediately upon capture using the traditional ikejime technique (a precise on-board bleeding process), preserving its pristine flavor and texture while elevating its culinary value. This careful handling prevents the buildup of lactic acid and stress hormones that can degrade the meat, resulting in fish that maintains its delicate sweetness and firm texture until it reaches the chef’s hands.

Just a short journey from the restaurant, Tsuyoshi Watanabe, a cattle farmer born in 1999, presides over the breathtaking 400,000 square meter (nearly 100 acres) “Uenoyama Pasture” nestled at the foot of Mount Chokai. With remarkable vision for one so young, he champions self-sufficient livestock management without reliance on imported feed, while simultaneously working to rejuvenate pastures that have deteriorated over time.
Watanabe has pioneered a remarkable approach with his “grazing mature cows that have calved”—a practice rare throughout Japan. As winter gives way to spring, his cattle emerge from their shelters to make a 6-kilometer (3.7-mile) journey up to pastures situated more than 500 meters (1,640 feet) above sea level. Here, from spring through autumn, they roam freely, grazing on natural grasses and leaves. This thoughtful farmer, who confronts the profound realities of life and sustenance daily, hopes to share with others the exceptional flavor of meat from animals that have experienced the full cycle of life, including motherhood, within this majestic natural setting. The young livestock farmer faces this reality every day, hoping people will appreciate the distinctive depth of flavor that develops in beef from cows that have calved and lived freely in these magnificent highland meadows.

Beyond the confines of his restaurant, Chef Watanabe orchestrates “Dining With a View” experiences —sublime outdoor feasts that unfold against the backdrop of the Sea of Japan’s shimmering sunset. These extraordinary events invite guests to engage with Nikaho’s landscape in its most delicious expression. Please join us at the next event.
Today, Chef Watanabe (born in 1979) stands alongside these passionate producers at the vanguard of a movement that is reinventing “Akita’s Cuisine” from the ground up—a testament to vision, perseverance, and deep reverence for place.

Getting there: 900m (about 0.56 miles, or 2-minute drive) from Nikaho IC on Nihonkai Tohoku Expressway
Address: 49-1, Hirasawa-aza Ienoushiro, Nikaho City, Akita Prefecture 018-0402
Store name: Remède nikaho
Phone: 0184-74-7065
Website: https://remede.jp

Text/Shunji Miyagawa
Photography/Yasuhumi Ito
Translation/Yumiko Sushitani